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True North Guitars


By Simone Solondz

Dennis Scannell of True North Guitars is only half joking when he compares his instruments to top-of-the-line sports cars. “When I think of the level of design sophistication that Porsche has to offer the world, if they were going to make guitars, I’d like them to look like mine,” he quips. In truth, the comparison is rather apt, considering the similar curves that grace the famous racing cars and Scannell’s instruments. The typical True North guitar has a significantly radiused back, a fully radiused top, a compound side taper that accentuates the curves, and a contoured Venetian cutaway that flows into the neck.

Scannell got his start in guitar building by attending Charles Fox’s American School of Lutherie when it was located in Healdsburg, California, in the mid-’90s. He studied inlay with Larry Robinson, finishing with Eugene Clark, and voicing with Michael Hornick and is quick to credit other luthiers who inspired his design ideas. An example of this is Harry Fleishman, who turned Scannell on to shaping semi-hemispherical frets, which have their ends completely shaped before installation, resulting in superior fit and ultraclean looks.

Such attention to detail takes time, which is why Scannell only builds nine or ten guitars a year. He says that once he discovers an element that improves his instruments, he won’t go back to using the previous method just because it’s easier. Other unique, time-consuming features on True North guitars include graphite neck reinforcements, side-tapered bodies that facilitate picking closer to the lower bout, and multiradius fingerboards. “Most builders use a single fingerboard radius—typically a 15- to 16-inch radius,” Scannell explains. “That dramatically simplifies the building process, but it’s a compromise. Because the fingerboard is tapering at the nut, what you’d like to see there is a conical surface and not a cylindrical surface. A conical fingerboard creates a more accurate relationship between the string and the fingerboard, so it’s a little easier to play and you can set it up with the strings closer to the board. I use a 12-inch radius at the nut and a 20-inch radius at the end of the board.”

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This article also appears in Acoustic Guitar, Issue #152



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